GrowSabzHow to grow taro in pots
Also called Dasheen, Eddo, Kalo, dasheen · Colocasia esculenta
اروی
- ☀️ Sunlight
- 4–6hours daily
- 💧 Water
- 3.9 Ldaily, 25 L pot
- 🌡️ Ideal temp
- 22–30°C
- 🪴 Min pot
- 25 L40 cm deep
- 🧺 Harvest
- 240–365days from sowing
- ⚖️ Yield
- 1.5 kgper 20 L pot
Taro drinks far more than most container plants — about 1200 ml for every 10 litres of soil, and in hot weather it wants that every single day. Underestimate that and you get the classic result: a plant that looks healthy in the morning and wilts by afternoon.
Short answer
Grow taro in a 25 litre container at least 40 cm deep, watering about 1200 ml per 10 litres of soil every day, and keep temperatures between 22 and 30 °C. First harvest comes 240–365 days after sowing.
Where to plant it
What size pot does taro need?
25 litres and 40 cm deep is the realistic minimum for a single plant. Pick a container below to see what changes.
| Container | Minimum size | Depth | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pot | 25 L | 40 cm | Ensure large pots for corm development and consistent moisture. |
| Grow bag | 25 L | 40 cm | Fabric bags promote good aeration while allowing for consistent moisture. |
| Open ground | — | 45 cm | Ideal for taro, especially in consistently moist or wet areas. |
| Raised bed | 40 L | 45 cm | Can work well if consistent moisture is maintained; good for controlling soil conditions. |
Watering
How often should you water taro?
Every day through the growing season, at about 1200 ml per 10 litres of soil — daily in hot weather, every 2 days when it turns cool. Water at any time, but consistent is key. Consistent irrigation works best.
Too little water
- wilting leaves
- stunted growth
- yellowing leaves
Too much water
- stagnant water smell
- some leaf yellowing (less common than underwatering)
Avoid: drying out completely.
Climate
Can you grow taro where you live?
No hardiness zone needed — compare your actual temperatures against the plant's own limits.
| Ideal range | 22 – 30 °C |
|---|---|
| Survives | 10 – 40 °C |
| Germinates above | 20 °C — best at 28 °C, about 14 days |
| Flowers drop | above 35 °C, or below 18 °C |
| Sunlight | 4–8 hrs/day, best 6 |
| Frost | Highly sensitive — will not survive it |
The flower-drop thresholds matter more than the survival ones. A plant can be perfectly alive at 40 °C and still give you nothing.
How cold is too cold for taro? Check your temperaturesEnter your night low and day high — see if it survives, and if it will cropTimeline
Taro growing stages, day by day
Click any stage to see what's happening. Durations shift with temperature — a warm season runs roughly a quarter faster than a cool one.
Feeding
Fertiliser schedule for taro
Feed on the interval below, changing what you give as the plant shifts from making leaves to making fruit.
| Stage | What to use | Per 10 L | Every |
|---|
How to prepare each feed
Common mistakes
Why taro fails, and how to avoid it
- A container that is too small
Below 25 litres the root run is too shallow. The plant grows, flowers late, and drops whatever it sets because it cannot support the crop.
- Watering too lightly
A daily splash wets the top few centimetres and nothing else. Taro wants about 1200 ml per 10 litres of soil — one deep soak beats three shallow ones.
- Ignoring the flower-drop threshold
Above 35 °C, or below 18 °C, flowers fall before setting. The plant can look perfectly healthy and still give you nothing — shade it through the hottest hours.
- Harvesting too late
Left too long the colour changes, seeds harden and the flavour sharpens. Pick on the signs listed below, not on the calendar.
- Planting it beside Potato
Shares susceptibility to some blights and diseases, and competes heavily for nutrients and water.
- Leaving it out through a cold snap
Taro is highly frost-sensitive. One night below 10 °C can end the plant outright — bring containers in or cover them.
Companions
What to plant with taro
Good neighbours
Roots produce a chemical that kills root-knot nematodes, a common pest for taro.
Legumes fix nitrogen in the soil, benefiting taro which is a heavy nitrogen feeder.
Can act as a living mulch, suppressing weeds and helping retain soil moisture, which taro loves.
Deters some common garden pests and thrives in moist conditions similar to taro (plant in containers to prevent invasiveness).
Benefits from the partial shade provided by larger taro leaves, helping to prevent bolting in hot weather.
Keep apart from
Shares susceptibility to some blights and diseases, and competes heavily for nutrients and water.
Extremely heavy feeders that will outcompete taro for essential nutrients and water, stunting its growth.
Members of the brassica family can inhibit the growth of many other plants, including taro.
Known to release substances from its roots that can inhibit the growth of nearby plants.
Has different soil and moisture requirements, and can attract pests that might also affect taro.
Problems
Taro pests and diseases
Each lists the weather that brings it on, so you know when to start checking rather than reacting once it's established.
Taro Leaf Blight humidity >90% · temp 20-30
Caused by Phytophthora colocasiae, this is the most destructive disease. Starts as small, dark, water-soaked spots that rapidly enlarge, leading to defoliation and corm rot.
Dasheen Mosaic Virus humidity any · temp any
Causes mosaic patterns, streaking, and distortion on leaves. Spread by aphids and through infected planting material. No cure, focus on prevention.
Root Knot Nematodes humidity any · temp >20
Microscopic worms that cause galls (swellings) on roots, leading to stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and reduced corm yield. Improve soil health and use resistant varieties.
Aphids humidity any · temp 15-25
Small, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves, sucking sap and secreting sticky honeydew. Can transmit viruses.
Spider Mites humidity <50% · temp >27
Tiny pests that cause stippling (tiny dots) on leaves, leading to yellowing and bronzing. Fine webbing may be visible on undersides of leaves in severe infestations.
Corm Rot humidity >80% · temp 25-35
Caused by various fungi and bacteria, leading to softening, discoloration, and decay of the corms, often with a foul smell. Poor drainage and waterlogging are major contributors.
Snails And Slugs humidity >70% · temp 10-25
These mollusks thrive in moist environments and chew irregular holes in leaves, especially on young plants. Look for slime trails.
Harvest
When to harvest taro
First picking falls between day 240 and day 365.
How to tell it's ready
- Older leaves yellow and die back
- Corms feel firm when gently probed
How much to expect
Storing it: Store corms in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place (e.g., mesh bags) for several weeks to months. Do not refrigerate.
Questions
Taro: common questions
How long does taro take to grow?
About 240 days from sowing to the first harvest, with picking usually starting between day 240 and day 365. Warm weather pulls that forward; cool weather pushes it back.
What size pot does taro need?
At least 25 litres and 40 cm deep for one plant. A raised bed wants 40 litres of soil and 45 cm of depth.
How often should I water taro?
About 1200 ml per 10 litres of soil, every day in normal weather — daily when it is hot and every 2 days when cool. Water in the any time, but consistent is key.
What temperature does taro need?
It does best between 22 °C and 30 °C and survives from 10 °C to 40 °C. Seed needs soil above 20 °C to germinate, ideally around 28 °C.
Can I grow taro in winter?
Not outdoors anywhere that frosts — it is highly frost-sensitive and will not survive it. In a frost-free winter it grows slowly; anywhere colder, treat it as a warm-season crop.
How do I know when taro is ready to harvest?
Older leaves yellow and die back; Corms feel firm when gently probed. Once picked: store corms in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place (e.g., mesh bags) for several weeks to months. do not refrigerate.
How much does one taro plant produce?
Roughly 1.5 kg from a 20 litre container, or about 4 kg in open ground. Larger containers give proportionally more, up to a point.